Place content here     PLANTING   Don't take the burlap off! After the tree is placed in the hole, cut the twine around the trunk and roll back top of burlap. Proper planting holes are important in tree survival. Holes should be two times wider than the root ball. If the soil is clay and the sides of the hole become glazed during digging, the sides of the hole should be roughened with a spade. Prewater holes before planting in dry soils. This prevents initial postplant water from migrating away from the root ball. Plant at the same depth that the tree or shrub was growing in its previous location WATERING   Too much or too little water after transplanting is a major cause of tree or shrub loss. The site should be thoroughly watered immediately after planting. Thereafter, the soil must be regularly monitored to prevent drying out. If rainfall is inadequate, the soil around the plant's roots should be deeply watered approximately every 10-14 days. If you are not sure if the soil is drying, dig down 3 to 4 inches next to the plant. Wet soil at that depth verifies watering is not needed at that time. MULCHING  Mulches help conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature and control weeds around trees and shrubs. They are placed on the soil surface over the tree or shrub root system. Either organic or inorganic mulches may be used. Organic mulches may be composed of bark or wood chips, straw, partially decomposed leaves or other materials. They should be applied 3 to 4 inches deep. Maintain a 4 to 6 inch mulch-free area adjacent to the woody stems.    FERTILIZING  For the first few years, woody plants rarely need nutrients beyond those naturally occurring in the soil. No fertilizers or manure should be mixed with the fill soil, as this could cause root damage. If transplants appear to need fertilizer during the first few years, a totally soluble complete fertilizer should be applied. STAKING   Staking trees may be necessary when the tree is tall, slow to recover, heavily foliaged, or planted in a sandy site. Most small trees and shrubs do not require staking or other support and will develop strong trunks faster if allowed to move freely with the wind. For trees that do require mechanical support, staking may be used. Two stakes can be placed opposite of each other and the tree anchored to the stakes with a nonabrasive material, such as a soft, broad, fabric strap. Any support provided to a tree should be removed as soon as the tree can stand alone, usually after the first growing season. The sooner the support is removed, the faster the tree will become stronger.